Which One Would Be Best for Me? (Metal or Pro)

[jjarman]

Okay I'm sold on the idea of a powerball to strengthen my grip, forearm, sholders, etc. for rock climbing. I'm fairly strong currently, but looking for a good low impact way to really exercise all the supporting tendons etc. on a daily basis.

The size is also a really big bonus for traveling.

This would be for strength purposes only. (Not rehibilitation or speed records, although once I'm hooked on PB who knows what the future will hold.;) )

Knowing this should I get the metal or start on a pro?
How much force can each exert? Anyone have the kg or lbs?

I'm under the impression that the Metal can exert a lot more force, but that you can tone that down by reducing the rpm and work up from where you are, especially if you aren't going for speed records. Is that correct?

Any thoughts, comments, questions, feedback would be appreciated as I want to make sure I am picking the right one to invest in.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Josh

[Dennis]

Hi Josh,

I'm a rock/sports climber myself and would definitely recommend the 250Hz pro.

You are correct that the Metal exerts a lot more torques (even at lower speeds); however, I find to gain the most benefit from a combination of endurance and 'moderate' strength exercise. Thus, I'd recommend to do high speed runs (which will significantly increase your grip-strength) as well as 30-, 60- and 90-sec endurance runs (achieving the highest scores you can get).

I am sure you agree with me that pure strength in itself is not enough to maintain a good grip on the wall. You usually hold on for 5 to 10 second with one hand before releasing the rock and moving on with the same hand. Depending on the length and difficulty of each climb, you usually have to go on for several movements before you can give one of your hands a fair rest. Hence, endurance at 80% grip-pressure is a requirement for a single rope-length (I'm a sports-climber, not an alpinist), as well as multi-pitches.

Although the Metal exerts a lot more force (for the exact figures at different speeds, you'd better ask one of the experts; probably Enda), it rather fatigues my arm muscles faster than it increases my grip strength. As I go climbing at least two times a week (3 times per week if I can), I need my muscles to get some rest. Otherwise, I cannot even hold on to the biggest protrusions on a vertical wall.

Notably, the Metal is a great instrument, however, also a monstrous torque generator. I have to admit that I underestimated the force of that little shiny orb the moment I gained one. I already had some good experience with the 250Hz and thought I could 'easily' manage its big brother. Naturally, I injured my thumb muscles, because I didn't handle it with the respect that it requires. I was unable to climb for two weeks at my normal level. Then I started to use the 250Hz for rehabilitation purposes and found it to be remarkably effective. Now I'm back into 6b+/6c and going for 7a (French index) when I feel like it!

I already tried to get Jason Girdlestone, Matt Rogers, Stefanie Van Amerongen and Claire Devereux to join the forum as they are also Rock Climbers who regularly submit new scores. Maybe they can add some interesting comments, as I believe the PowerBall is an excellent device for climbers (you already named the advantages: small, light-weight, directed at exactly the right group of muscles, and great fun). I recommend you to purchase a leather case as well, for travelling. It reduces the chance of getting dirt and sand inside the PowerBall, which reduces its finesse.

As we climbers have experienced: The world is vertical and gravity is just an emotion...

KIind regards,
Dennis

P.S. PowerBall is addictive; you'll go for the highest speed runs and best 90-sec runs you can manage before you know it. ;)

[jjarman]

Dennis,

That was exactly the sort of information I was looking for!

I completely agree about the combination of strength and endurance is important. (Lack of endurance can zap/decrease strength faster then anything.)

I appreciate all the time and thought put into your reply, it gave me a really good feel for the difference.

Having never held one of these, I was thinking that the 250mhz was more of a speed toy/rehabilitatior and the 350mhz Metal was for more serious workouts. From your reply I'm gathering that the 250mhz can give quite a good workout and that the 350mhz is actually quite a powerful beast. I'm still wrapping my mind around the fact that such a little ball could generate so much force not hooked to anything. ;-)

I'd still be interested in the torque in kg or lbs of both just for informational purposes. (Enda?)

In the meantime I think that I'll get a 250mhz Pro with a case and start from there.

I'd love to hear more climbers experiences with this device.
Do you use any other non-gyroscopic grip devices to suppliment your grip workout? (or specific exercises?)

Thanks Again!
Josh

[Dan24]

Hi jjarman, I think, if you reach 15,000 rpm with the 250hz, it generates about 40lb of torque, but im not sure about the metal, but i do no that it can generate ALOT more :D

[jjarman]

Okay, I think that I am already a hopeless case. I just ordered both the Pro & Metal and another Pro for a family member, all with cases and straps of course.

I like the idea of the Pro for grip and the Metal for some more muscle recruitment when desired.

Unfortunatly now when people ask how my grip and forearms got so strong, I'm going to have to tell them it was from playing with my balls. :p I'm sure that is an old joke around these parts, just ignore the new guy.

Cheers!
Josh

[jjarman]

I just ordered both the Pro & Metal and another Pro for a family member, all with cases and straps of course.

I placed my order yesterday evening, and it has already shipped this morning!
WOW!

I even mixed up the order the first time and had to place a second one, canceling the first. They took care of everything and the first is already refunded.

I have to say I am VERY IMPRESSED with the level of service of this company.

Many Thanks!!!